Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Imagination to Application






Doesn’t this video make you want to be a kid again?! It was too cute and fun not to put in here, but it does make some valid points.

 1) What was their go-to size for a car? Small!! Size is on of the biggest problems of our industry. The Designer’s Atlas of Sustainability says there are three ways we as humans disrupt nature’s material cycle: The scale on which we use and discard material, the speed at which we use those materials, and the material we take from the lithosphere and give to other spheres. 
2) Its an advertisement from a company who is very vocal about their sustainability efforts. 
3) These little kids are the ones who we’re going to leave our own footprint to; what we do affects them. 
4)  They had lots of fun throughout the whole process. 
5) These little kids are also us. We’re the “now” generation, the baby designers, the interns and most importantly, the fresh ideas. We’ve been taught about these issues and it is our chance to turn our field around. 

William McDonough and Michael Braungart have created Cradle to Cradle, or C2C. The quote on the front page of the article is “Remaking the Way We Make Things”. This is only the first of many different ways to make our mark. As mentioned by Dr. Armstrong in her lecture, C2C has three main tenets: Use current solar income, celebrate diversity and waste equals food. Let’s take a look into what these actually mean and what we can do about!

I was super overwhelmed with all of these concepts, especially the first one. Use current solar income? What does that even mean? So I dug a little deeper and lo and behold Cradle To Cradle’s Certificate of Compliance popped up on the McDonough Braungart Design Company’s website. Current solar income basically means using renewable energy. Their ultimate goal for current solar income is to have all of the energy inputs come from geothermal, wind, biomass, hydro and photovoltaic energy. However, in order to be a C2C certified product, only 50% of the manufacturing process must be renewable energy, this doesn’t include transportation. Cotton has recently been under fire because the amount of energy it takes to produce. I found an article in Applied Solar Energy pointing out a solution to the manufacturing process of cotton, one of the biggest textiles of our industry. Normally, the drying process of cotton includes air heated by burning liquid fuels.  The solution? Specialized ceramics that decrease the duration of drying, improves efficiency and high-quality target output. Data shows that this method is 9.4 times more energy efficient than the former method and consumes more than 2.5 times less energy. Textile World has an article that mentions several companies that are taking steps toward renewable energy. Interface, a carpet manufacturer, has seven plants that use 100-percent renewable electricity.  Approximately 28 % of Interface’s total energy needs are sourced from solar, hydroelectric, landfill gas and geothermal energy. Hydropower provides 91% of the energy used for the fabric producer The Victor Group.  Shaw Industries has converted 18,000 plus tons of post-industrial carpet waste and wood floor to steam energy at its Dalton, Georgia plant and the list goes on.  This is so encouraging because it means companies are waking up to current environmental issues!

The second tenet of C2C, is celebrate diversity. This sector focuses on local resources and design. In our reading, Cradle to Cradle Waste Equals Food, they tell the story of how Chicago was designed. Originally, the cities that surrounded Chicago were created to provide for the city. They were “bound to the city and fueled by its needs”. How convenient is that? One of the biggest problems in our industry is the transportation of goods. A short drive to small towns just beyond the big city limits immensely cuts down on energy that would be wasted shipping long distances! It also keeps all of the rural economies afloat. McDonough’s website also says that we should celebrate nature’s diversity. This means creating designs that fit the local systems relying on local energy and material sources. He provides the example of a Gap office in San Bruno, California. The roof is covered in soil, flowers and grasses that match the local terrain. This roof also “absorbs storm water and provides thermal insulation”. The floor is raised to allow breezes to flow through while the concrete below remains cool and provides a cooling effect throughout the day. His solution coincides with LEED guidelines created to solve the heat island effect on roofing. According to the EPA website, heat islands demand more energy, increase the cost of air conditioning, create more air pollution and greenhouse gas emissions and can even spur on heat-related illness.  By designing with the environment around you, you can save costs, reduce pollution and may even become healthier!



The video above is just a glimpse into the third tenet: waste equals food.  The focus of this proposition entails many details but we will specifically focus on the idea of biological and technical metabolisms and then up-cycling. According to our reading article, Cradle to Cradle Food Equals Waste biological metabolisms are ones that are useful to the earth. Technical metabolisms are items like metal that contribute to the “technosphere”. The problem with technical metabolisms right now is that they cannot be recycled back into earth. A C2C solution is to design products from the beginning to be recyclable as technical “nutrients”. The article says that too often packaging materials are deliberately designed to not break down under natural conditions. This is creating huge problems in landfills. When these technical items were scarce like during the Great Depression, people would save and reuse jugs, aluminum foil, rubber bands and more. To this day, my Nana still reuses foil and ziploc bags - items that I take for granted and tend to just throw away even if they barely had been used! This saving up of technical resources stopped when the technology came about to create cheaper materials. It became easier to just create the product than create a place to collect and clean these items for use. What causes the biggest problem is when these two metabolisms are combined to make one product. It makes it hard for the metabolisms to break down into its natural components. The article provides the example of a shoe. Shoes used to be tanned with vegetable chemicals that were biodegradable. Unfortunately, this took a long time and chromium tanning was its replacement. However, vegetable chemicals may be making a comeback. In a YouTube video I found called Fab Flash, the host was telling about top designers who were practicing sustainable practices. The shoe designer, Manolo Blahnik has created sandals and shoes that use vegetable-dyed leathers that also have natural textured soles. The next topic and my favorite is up-cycling. According to The Designer’s Atlas of Sustainability up cycling is when material is remade into a high-quality material. 
An article from PR Newswire tells all about the company Jackpot. Jackpot uses recycled plastic bottles to create dresses. One dress equals nine and a half recycled plastic bottles. The dress to the left is made with two types of polyester one of them being from recycled plastic bottles and the other a pre-consumer recycled polyester-production bi-product. Both of these polyesters spare the environment and are considered alternatives to cotton and linen. Jackpot also creates a new donation shirt every season – for every shirt they sell during the season, five euros or six dollars and thirty-two cents will be given to poor children in Bangladesh. Another way to up-cycle can be found in your own backyard and is the reason for posting the video you just watched. Taking used scraps of materials and turning it into an entirely new piece. This weekend in Perkins, Oklahoma, I found an antique store called Rusty Barrel Vintage Furnishings. They open only two weekends a year and this store is an absolute treasure - smack in the middle of Oklahoma and luckily close enough to me to dig through! The owner turns dressers into benches, barn doors into coffee tables, whiskey barrels into sinks, skis into chairs and much more. Among all of his creations are random materials that allow you to be creative. I bought an old wooden cable spool and turned it into a side table, shown above. These products tell stories and allow you to share your own design inexpensively, all while being environmentally friendly!

Overall, as designers we need to go back to the basics. We should come up with solutions to create a better process. Our products should be designed to be recyclable. The Food to Waste article gives an example of parts of a chair. After its useful life, consumers can easily tear off the fabric and throw it into the compost. That’s how all of our products should be. This is our field so we should be making it easy for the consumer. An article from The Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management has data that proves consumers who aren’t interested in sustainability won’t look into it and that people buy based on look and not durability or comfort.  However, results did show that 81% were interested in purchasing sustainable clothing in the future because they want to be eco-friendly consumers. I think that’s a number we can work with!








14 comments:

  1. Another job well done, Cara! I notice you have omitted a discussion about the chemical standards?
    On the other hand, I continue to be impressed with your use of highly credible sources and your thorough research methods. You also do a nice job of linking that research to the course topic. Keep this up! Only one more to go!

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    1. Hi Dr. Armstrong!! Thank you so much for the feedback!! In respect to the chemical standards, I apologize!! I thought LEED would count towards that, but I do have some research on the chemicals as well!! In my blog I talk about the tanning of shoes. Back in the old days, shoes would be tanned with vegetable chemicals and now they are tanned using chromium. In looking at the American Apparel and Footwear Association Restricted Substance List, I came across chromium. I thought that was interesting and upon further inspection found that it was only restricted in infant's clothing. However, it still had my interests because I wondered why babies couldn't have it but grown adults could? The Danish Ministry of the Environment Environmental Protection Agency has a whole study on chromium tanning. Turns out, chromium in leather shoes lead to allergic reactions and foot eczema. This is specifically more difficult for women because we're the ones who wear sandals barefoot, if the sandals had direct contact with our skin we could have a reaction to it. I'm not a fan of being uncomfortable and I'm sure that you would agree blisters aren't even fun when breaking in new shoes let alone a whole allergic reaction to the sandal! There are ways to reduce the risk of a reaction if shoe designers will make sure to avoid the use of natural products like certain fish oils, employ vegetable retaining agents, make sure the pH values during neutralisation are correctly adjusted and avoid using ammonia before dyeing. The article said that 20 pairs of childrens shoes on the market were tested for chromium levels. 5 of them had an illegal level of above three milligrams. How do these even make it on the market? As consumers we blindly trust our designers and I think it is of some concern that items that shouldn't even have passed inspection, make it to the floors.

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  2. Hi, Cara;
    I am so sorry, missed the LEED discussion, you're fine. I forget I have to wear two hats in this course! This is very interesting about chromium and thank you for providing this info. You ask a very good question. The answer to that question is that organization like the EEPA and the EPA in the US have long, arduous process to investigate such. The EPA launched an investigation into nano materials a couple years ago. It will take 4 years to investigate. Meanwhile . . . who knows what is happening. The same could be said for food/drug industries and the FDA. It puts a real burden on consumers. These "hidden" materials complicate what designers can do, as some designers are not educated about what these things are, especially if they are not designing their own materials. They lose some control there. Your work is exceptional in this course! Keep it up!

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  3. Thats crazy!! Exactly why designers should be finding the sources of their products!! Thanks again for the feedback!!

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  4. Cara,

    Your video at the begining was too cute, and definitely reminded me of when I was younger. I think that it is really good to see big companies like Tide doing their part in our environment. The solution involving specialized ceramics to decrease the process of energy used to create cotton is a very useful method to sustaining our environment. Many other companies should be joining this strategy in no time! Do you think some companies will be slow to catch on, or maybe just not so fond about this new method, if so what are some reasons why?

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  5. It may be slow to catch on but I think companies will realize that something has to change. I would venture out to say that the majority of our t-shirts and clothing have some amount of cotton in them. It's too big of a material not to focus on simply because if we keep doing what we're doing, it won't be there at some point. The article that I got the cotton information from has data that proves the quality of cotton dried with ceramics has a better quality than cotton dried using the traditional method. With our blog talk last week, we discussed how quality is a huge factor for designers and consumers in clothing. If this is a solution and will save the cotton industry, I think designers will catch on. Do you think that the current cotton industry methods are a big no in sustainability right now?

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    1. I do think that the traditional cotton developing methods are a big no no in sustainability currently. The pesticides that are used in the current cotton production harm humans, animals, and the environment. This new sustainable method is very much needed and hopefully companies catch on really quickly in time to save the cotton industry and our environment.

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  6. Cara,

    I had to laugh when you mentioned that your grandmother saves her used foil and Ziploc bags because one of my best friend’s grandmothers does exactly the same thing! I think we could learn something from their generation. You hit the nail on the head with your video, the children of this generation may be the solution. If we start teaching them now about how to be better stewards of our environment, it will be habit to them to recycle. I like your example from the company Jackpot. I never knew so many things could be made from recycled plastic bottles. Do you think consumers would purchase the recycle dress over the conventional dress if they knew the benefits of the Cradle to Cradle approach?

    Carly

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  7. Carly,

    We could learn a thing or two about saving from our grandparents!! I think if the design is current and with their style, people will buy recycled dress. However, I think that style is one of the problems with sustainability. Honestly, when I thought of sustainable design before this project, I thought of earthy products that are all neutral in color. Thats not my personality at all so I wouldn't have looked further into it. It will be a challenge for designers to come up with a way to make the designs friendly for EVERY style and not just the more earthy group. Would you agree with this? How do you think we can get designers like Ralph Lauren or Michael Kors who have trendy and classic styles to use sustainable products? The only thing mentioned on either one of the designers websites was Ralph Lauren who offered a recycled tote bag, I think he can do better than that!

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    1. Cara,

      That’s a great question. When you asked about Ralph Lauren, I immediately thought about his new daughter-in-law, Lauren Bush Lauren, creator of FEED. Their mission is to feed the world. They sale FEED bags, bears, t-shirts, and other accessories and built a set donation into the cost of each product. The website states that they take great pride in using environmentally friendly and artisan made materials, along with fair-labor production. I also read that she recently started her own fashion label, Lauren Pierce, which sources fabrics hand-dyed by artisans in Africa. I’m hoping that she will have a tremendous impact on her father-in-law to start producing sustainable products. If Ralph Lauren would do this, maybe Michael Kors and other large labels would do the same. Have you found any other classic designers that are starting to practice the C2C approach?

      Carly

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    2. Carly,

      That's so neat!! I looked on their website and found that one of their partnerships is Ralph Lauren Rugby, it may only be one division but at least its something!! They also had partnerships with Pottery Barn, Nordstroms, Gap and Disney! I also looked at the C2C website for their partnerships. I was not familiar with a lot of the C2C brands but the ones that stuck out were USPS, Procter and Gamble and Pendleton Woolen Mills. However, the one that I found most interesting is Armstrong which has a home base right her in Stillwater!!

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    3. Cara,

      That is so awesome that Armstrong has an plant in Stillwater. We all need to go check it out when we return to school.

      Carly

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  8. Cara,
    That's so cool that a Gap office has a "green" roof with wildlife growing on it. I think that would be a pretty fun place to work at. The roof would help save energy and it also makes the building look nice. In the Designer's Atlas of Sustainability it discussed that many products could be made of the biosphere but I never thought of a roof while I was reading. What do you think are some other things a business could incorporate in their store made out of nutrients from one of the four spheres?

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  9. Rachel,

    I thought so too!! I think businesses have lots of options, even in the middle of the city! One, C2C is big on designing around the environment around you. So if you are able to do the green roof type buildings, do it!! I was talking to an incoming freshman and he was talking about how his house in small town Oklahoma was underground. He says it looks like a mound and has things growing on top but its a house!! I thought that was interesting!! Two, businesses who don't have the option to do the green roof, say in the middle of the city, can do small things. McDonough's website says that companies can even change the textiles used in the builidings, like curtains or drapes, can be created to be biodegradable and can be returned to soil after its use. Inside and out their are options!! Did you find any cool ideas that businesses could use to incorporate a C2C design?!

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